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on Traveling to Europe

​​When you read this, I will be in Europe. (You can follow along on my adventures on Instagram; follow me @amylsorensen.)

Amy in Europe

(My first time in Europe...wandering a street in Florence, my favorite Italian city.)

In January Haley decided to do a semester abroad in Spain this summer, and then in April she had the idea of going a week early, to see some of the sights in Europe. I decided to come with her because I was worried about her traveling around Europe on her own. (And because I wanted to see some of the sights in Europe too!)

I was talking to a neighbor about this trip, and she said "I can't believe you're brave enough to travel to Europe without your husband. Or even at all! I would be so afraid."

"What would you be afraid of?" I asked her, sincerely curious.

"Getting lost. Or mugged. The airplane crashing. All of those terrorist attacks in Europe!" 

I thought about what she was saying. It reminded me of my mornings spent running up Squaw Peak Road, which is a steep, twisting, narrow mountain road near where I live, with narrow shoulders, and how whenever I start to run it, I am overcome with "what ifs." What if I got hit by a car? What if I accidentally fell down the mountain? What if I stumbled on the road and got injured? What if someone from the shooting range shot so wildly that he shot me? What if a mountain lion followed me?

Usually, before I start, I have to take a deep breath. I have to remind myself of my precautions: I only run with one earbud in, and the volume on my music extra low so that I can hear the traffic. I stick to the shoulder. I run with my cell phone so if anything But when I get started running up that road, I leave the "what ifs" behind. What I find instead is a running bliss that is unique to that place, inspired by the steep uphill, by being on a mountain, by the view around me (three different mountains I have hiked, and trees so close i can touch them if I want to, and wildflowers and the blue blue sky). It is a hard run, but it is beautiful, and if I let my "what ifs" stop me, I would never feel that feeling.

I listened to my neighbor and her litany of fears, and why she would never travel without her husband or, likely, with her husband, and I found words tumbling out of me. I hope I was gentle and not judgmental. "I decided a long time ago," I told her, "to not be limited by fear. To not let fear stop me from doing what I want to do. If I let myself be afraid, I would never do anything."

If I'm honest, I can tell you: I am afraid. I'm afraid that we will miss our carefully-scheduled trains. I'm afraid of getting lost and of losing Haley. I'm afraid of not knowing how to navigate the Tube or the Metro and of ending up somewhere dicey. I'm afraid our hotel in Amsterdam—right in the middle of the Red Light district—will be dodgy. I'm afraid of pick pockets. I wasn't afraid of airplane crashes, muggings, or terrorist attacks, but I am, a little bit, now.

But still—when you read this, I will be in Europe. Because you know what else I am afraid of? Never experiencing anything beyond the small confines of my everyday life. Never sitting at a street cafe in Paris while French is spoken around me and I don't understand anything but I am there. Not having any more museum moments, when you go to a specific museum to see a specific piece of art which is, yes, amazing, but you also find your​ piece there, the one that everyone else might overlook but that is a piece that changes something for you. The prospect that I will never see the great architecture of the world, or wander down ancient streets I don't know the name of, or stand on a bridge over the Thames or a canal or the Seine.

I want to be amazed by what is around an unknown corner, humbled by history, astounded by churches. 

I want to run down cobbled streets or on a path through a garden or past storied monuments. (Yes...I am packing my running shoes!)

I want to go, and see, and experience what the world wants to show me. 

I am afraid of the bad things that could happen. But I won't let my fears stop me from experiencing the good things that can be found only by stretching. By going out into the world anyway.


from Cedar Point to Niagara Falls: Tales from the Last 11-Year-Old Trip

When Haley was almost eleven, someone that Kendell worked with swapped us: a camera lens I couldn't use anymore for two standby airplane tickets. In retrospect, this was a bad swap, as flying on standby is about the most miserable thing I can think of. But it was a good swap, too, because it sparked a sort of tradition: the 11-year-old trip. Since we only had two tickets, we decided that just one parent would go, and since Kendell had recently been both to New York City and to Washington D.C. for work, we decided it would be me. Just me and my 11-year-old.
 
We went to Niagara because neither of us had been there, and because it meant we could go into Canada (visiting a different country became part of the tradition), and because it was the furthest place the airline flew. That trip was an adventure, my first time traveling as an adult on my own. There were some hairy moments, like when I ran a stop sign on the bridge going into Canada and the immigration (or is it customs?) officer yelled at me, and then when it was soooo late and I was sooooo tired and we drove around for a half hour trying to find our hotel and I had a little travel-anxiety meltdown that probably scarred Haley forever. (Traveling with a GPS on your smart phone makes traveling so much easier!) But we had a ball—we did every single activity possible in Niagara, we went to Niagara-on-the-Lake and waded in Lake Ontario. We stayed in a lovely hotel and then decided to extend our stay (the only plus of standby tickets!) and stayed in the grossest hotel I've ever been in. We laughed and grew closer, we talked, we made memories together that I still savor.
 
I feel a little bit conflicted about Jake's and Nathan's 11-year-old trip. They still each got to go somewhere with me—Cabo San Lucas—but we brought siblings, cousins, aunts, uncles, and a grandma along. (Actually, we tagged along: my sister shared her time share with us for those trips). On the one hand, we had 10+ lovely days at the beach, days of lounging and relaxing and shopping and eating good food. On the other hand, I really miss the one-on-one time I had with Haley. Of course, sitting at the beach with just your mom isn't quite as fun as sitting at the beach with siblings and cousins, but looking back, what I wish I would have done at least one day-long excursion with just the 11-year-old and me, because it is that individual experience that I intended the 11-year-old trip to have. (Still: Cabo.) And we did: we laughed, we talked, we reconnected, we made some of my favorite memories.
 
Early in June, Kaleb and I headed off for his 11-year-old trip. Since he loves roller coasters, the bigger the better, we found an amusement park full of them, Cedar Point in Sandusky, Ohio. He got to fly for the first time (no standby tickets, thank goodness, but we did almost miss our first flight, due to a combination of extra-long TSA lines and Kendell's overly-optimistic opinion about how little time we'd need; we were literally the last people to get on the flight, two minutes before they closed the gate), experience the boredom of a layover (in Denver on the way out and in JFK on the way home, and I have to say: ten years later, I still really hate JFK), and discover the magic of a rental car ("wait, we just get to drive this around for our trip and then give it back?"). Just getting to your destination is part of the adventure!
 
Cedar Point is fairly amazing if you like roller coasters. Kaleb was tall enough to ride everything, and we made it our goal to get on every single coaster. We didn't quite make it the first day—we missed the Maverick coaster because it was shut down every time we were in that section—but as we had two days in the park, that was OK. Kaleb's favorite was the Raptor, until we finally got on the Maverick (after waiting for one entire hour, literally the. longest. wait we've ever had for a roller coaster ever, anywhere) on our second day, and then we both agreed it was our favorite. So smooth! He also loved the Mean Streak, which is a long wooden coaster, and the Magnum, a traditional metal coaster (with no loops) that we rode eight times before our trip was over. (My other favorites were the Millennium and Rougarou, although Valvran and Gatekeeper were also fairly awesome.)
 
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Our very last moment at Cedar Point, with Maverick (and the setting sun!) behind us
 
I learned some things about Kaleb. He loves pop music and knows who sings almost everything. (We made it a sort of rule that every time "Love Yourself" or "Send My Love" came on the radio we had to sing along.) He has a curious mind and is quick to point out opportunities for puns and jokes. That kid is always hungry...before our trip, I thought it was just boredom, but really: he wasn't bored. He is just always hungry. Perhaps there is a big growth spurt in his future? He doesn't like waiting in line, but to pass the time he was willing to play Scattegories with me. I remembered how cheerful and easy-going he is, and how he's flexible about most things but can dig in his heels about others. One of my favorite moments came at the end of our first day, when we were running from one ride (the Windseeker, which I had wanted to ride all day but which was down for almost the whole time) to fit in another ride on the Raptor before we left. Kaleb had bare feet and was caring his shoes, but we ran anyway, laughing the whole time. (We totally made it.) We laughed and grew closer; we talked; we made memories I will always savor.
 
After our two days at Cedar Point, we had a travel day, when we drove along the south east side of Lake Erie towards Niagara Falls. Kaleb slept through quite a bit of this drive, so I just turned on the music on my phone and sang along. I actually really love road trips, and as it was through a section of the world I've never seen, I was happy. Ohio is very green, I discovered, but there are no mountains; the freeways are smaller and slower than Utah's; Ohio drivers are more courteous than Utah drivers.
 
I wanted to stop at a lighthouse, but none of them were open during the time we would be traveling by. Instead, I took us to the Wade Memorial Cemetery in Cleveland. I chose that as a stop because I wanted to see the Wade Memorial church (ever since being in Italy, I'm a little bit obsessed with going inside beautiful churches). It was, honestly, a little bit disappointing. It was beautiful, but small, and the guide didn't say anything to us. But I'd also planned on making a stop at the President Garfield monument (also in the cemetery; it is where he is interred) and that? Was the opposite of disappointing (maybe because I didn't expect anything from it?) The guide told Kaleb the story of President Garfield's short presidency and me about the building's history. The building is gorgeous, made of a black stone, with stairs to the entrance and spiral stairs to the top, stained glass windows depicting the 13 original colonies, and a statue of Garfield. In the basement are his and his wife's coffins.
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Kaleb was grumpy and wouldn't smile for a pic, so I had him take one of me instead!
 
I loved that stop, but Kaleb was pretty bored (11-year-old boys want roller coasters and/or adventure, not old buildings and history), so after wandering around a swan-filled pond (and a stop for some food), we got back on the road. Our next stop was in Erie, Pennsylvania, where we went to the Bicentennial Tower in Port Erie. Mostly I made this part of our itinerary so that we could have a little experience in Pennsylvania, as it's a state neither one of us have been to. The tower was lovely, with a gorgeous view of Lake Erie, but we were both disappointed that we had to take the elevator instead of climbing the stairs. We stayed for about half an hour; it was windy and chilly so we didn't want to linger. (I shared one of my irrational fears with Kaleb there, when we stood on the stairs that lead to Lake Erie: whenever I am near open water, I get anxious that my rings will fall off. Irrational because my rings can't fall off, but my mind conjures them falling off, anyway, and disappearing into the water.)
 
Our next stop was Buffalo, New York, where we ate dinner at the Anchor Bar (the place where Buffalo Wings were invented; I generally don't like chicken wings but these were delicious!), and then we drove into Niagara, New York. It was getting close to twilight, and on the last stretch of causeway, there were long lengths of bugs swarming around. It sounded like driving through a ferocious rain storm, except bug bodies instead of rain drops. We found our hotel without any drama (again...I'm not sure how we managed to travel anywhere before Google Maps!) and checked in for the night.
 
Our last day was spent at Niagara Falls. I got up early and went for a run—onto Goat Island across the pedestrian bridge and then right along the American side of the Niagara river. I'd forgotten my headphones so I didn't have any music, but it didn't matter, the view was so amazing. I've seen it before...but it is always beautiful. Then we were off for our Niagara Falls adventure. Kaleb was a little bit worried on the drive over to the falls, because, as he said, "Mom! We don't have our hiking boots with us! How will we hike to the waterfall?" and then we crossed the bridge and he could see how absolutely no hiking was required. (Niagara is beautiful but it is definitely not the wild nature kind of waterfall we're used to in the west.) We didn't have a ton of time—we needed to be at the airport in Buffalo by 3:00 at the latest—but we fit in a walk up and down the Canadian side of the river (so that Kaleb, too, could be in a different country), a cruise into the waterfall, and a turn on the Cave of the Winds boardwalk on the American side. Our feet got wet, we were amazed at the beauty of it all, and we got a little bit sunburned.
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It was a perfect day.
 
When we first got to Niagara, I pulled over to park and realized that behind me was the hotel where Haley and I had stayed when we came for her 11-year-old trip. I could remember us so clearly walking down the plaza on our first day there, toward the waterfalls, and the same little candy shop was still there on the corner. Kaleb was only 1 when I took that trip with Haley; I had just weaned him and was a little nervous to leave him at home without me (he did fine). Now, in what seemed like a few weeks, here I was again, but this time Kaleb was the 11-year-old. It was one of those time-folding moments, when edges overlap, and I wondered how a decade could past so swiftly, how Kaleb isnn't a baby anymore and Nathan is driving and dating and Jake is graduated and Haley is almost done with college. 
 
I might have teared up just a bit.
 
Because time—life—it all passes so swiftly. You can't hold on; it's all just rushing down, unstoppable. It's unbearably sad, somehow. How quickly they grow up, how fleeting childhood is.​ Traveling, though: it's sort of a pause. It's an opportunity to be outside of your regular time stream, and the newness of everything makes the time memorable, looking back. As with all things with Kaleb, this is a last experience: my last trip with an 11-year-old. I realized right at that moment that it was a circle, this decade between trips, that started and ended in Niagara Falls. I pulled Kaleb in for a side hug and I kissed him on the top of his head just because he's still short enough for me to do that. And I felt just how lucky I have been to be the mom of these kids, of him, and to travel through life with them. 

Two Books about Rape: All the Rage and Exit, Pursued by a Bear

​One of my librarian friends and I were talking a few weeks ago about what we were reading. She said "I've actually just finished binge-watching Veronica Mars, and now that I think about it, I think it's a show you'd really like." She thought for a second, clearly struggling to put a weird thought into words. "Part of it is about how she was date-raped and is trying to figure out who her rapist was...and that seems like, you know. Sort of your thing."

Another awkward pause.

"Not that..." she hesitated.

So I jumped in. It's not that I can say I like reading books about rape. That really would be weird. Instead, it is that I am drawn to books (and yes, TV shows and movies) that deal with women's issues in serious, realistic, and thought-provoking ways.

And one of those issues is rape.

"Interestingly enough," I told my librarian friend, "I just finished a YA novel about something similar, Exit, Pursued by a Bear by E. K. Johnston."

Cover all the rageShe and I had talked late in December about how, while everyone else thought the YA novel All the Rage (also a novel about rape) was this generation's Speak (ditto on subject), we both thought it was confusing. I read the last part three times but I still didn't have a clear vision of what actually happened. All the Rage takes a character who is already on the fringe—Romy Grey is from the poor side of her small midwestern town—and then pushes her out even further into isolation and doubt when she is raped by (and then reports) the sheriff's son. The book is about how people can turn victims into scapegoats and how girls need to take care of each other (but usually don't) and how the flaws in the system give rapists freedom to repeat their crimes. It's a harrowing, gritty book, but still: I can't quite exactly explain what happened to Romy. Maybe that's the point—and it is a well-established fact that I don't need clean, tidy endings—but I wanted to leave the book understanding what she experienced, and I didn't, so I felt a little...at odds.

But I'm glad such novels exist. Ones that are willing to look at what happens to a girl's psyche when she becomes a victim. Ones that examine how society itself enables such horrible things to happen. By writing fiction about rape, we take away some of its power, because it can become a thing to write about just like any other topic. It's not exempt and it shouldn't be hidden away without conversation, and novels can bring it into the light.

So while, no, I would never say that novels about rape are a genre I am specifically drawn to, they are novels I will usually read, because sometimes reading—even fiction—can be a form of witnessing.

Cover exitExit, Pursued by a Bear, takes a totally different approach than All the Rage. The main character, Hermione Winters, is the only daughter of wealthy parents. She's spending the last week of summer before her senior year at the cheer camp she's gone to since she was 14, but this time she is the captain of her squad. At the party at the end of camp, she is drugged and raped, and the rest of the novel is about her process of dealing with this violent experience that she has very little memory of. 

I liked many things about this book. I liked that it challenged my I-don't-like-cheerleaders perspective. I liked that Hermione, even as a popular girl, had to grapple with people's stares, whispers, and assumptions. I liked the friendships and the relationships in the story. 

I liked mostly that the author took this approach, started with a girl who wasn't a victim of anything, whose life was really damn fine, and  then made her a victim. It changes the dynamic of the usual story somehow. Hermione has a strong support system: involved parents, strong friends, access to mental healthcare. It felt like a story that started with a "what if" question: What if a wealthy, successful teenage girl is raped? What does it do to her life? Does it cause her to lose any of the markers of her success?

What I didn't like is that the answer to the question felt like "no." Hermione changes, of course, as the result of the rape. But she never breaks. She is sad, she is nauseous, she is traumatized; she has a freak-out moment later on in the book, but she never crumbles. It doesn't feel like she ever truly reacts to the rape in a visceral, raw way.

And maybe the point of her non-reaction is that, with the right resources, a rape doesn't have to break you. Or that she was a strong character who refused to be broken. Who took control of her experience and acted the least like a victim that she could.

That is positive, of course.

But for me, it doesn't feel believable. It feels almost...glossy. Yes: many, many people are strong enough to survive a rape and not have it ruin their entire life.  No victim needs to be defined as a victim for the rest of her life. But I don't believe there wouldn't be any dramatic choices, or any backlash, or any destruction. Dealing with the outcome, suffering through the backlash and surviving it—what a victim must plunge through during her recuperation—and coming out on the other side as a changed person is where the power of a rape narrative lies. 

And it felt to me like Hermione never plunged anywhere. Like she never went through but went around instead. 

I read novels about rape not as a voyeur but as a witness. As an act of solidarity and a refusal to let it be a hidden topic. Exit, Pursued by a Bear​ was an interesting story. A good exploration of "what if." But by making Hermione so strong, the writer made the process invisible. There was almost nothing to witness. 


14 Books I Wanted to Read But Ran Out of Time

Checking out a library book is an optimistic action. It suggests hope in the idea that time will be found to simply sit somewhere comfortable and be immersed in a story. You check out a book because you love the idea of it, or the cover is appealing, or it’s written by an author you’ve enjoyed before. “Read this,” suggests someone whose taste you admire, so you hunt the book down at the library and bring it home. A NYT review, a spot on NPR, a review on your favorite book blog: It’s so easy to find books to read and then to fill yourself with anticipation, both for the reading itself and for the solitude, the quiet, the comfort.

And then life gets in the way.

I think my ratio of books checked out to books I actually manage to finish is about 12:3. I want to read them, every single one, but I also have to live. I fit in as many books as I can, but there is so much to be done with every minute of time. In any given hour, I could do 18 different things, each of them important, and quite often the thing I pick isn’t reading. I remember once, when I was about 15 or 16, sitting on the floor in a hall of my high school, a teacher stopped next to me and said, “You know, when you grow up, you’ll have to stop reading all the time.”

(Obviously not an English teacher.)

He made being a grown up sound like a desolate wasteland. A book drought. A literature void.

I’m reminded the most in the summer that maybe growing up wasn’t the best thing I could’ve done. Remember how, in the summers of your childhood, you had all that free time? I think most kids probably filled it with running around with other kids, or baseball, or tennis. I did some of that, too, but mostly what I did was recline in a lawn chair in the shade by the peach tree and read. Book after book after book.

Every summer I long to go back to those days. I illustrate this desire by checking out books, and there’s always a pile by my nightstand and a pile in the front room and a couple stacked on the kitchen table. I want to read all of them, I try to finish more, but eventually they are overdue, and then they can’t be renewed another time, and then I have to return them.

But I don’t want to forget them.

Amy sorensen books I had to return

Here’s a list of the 14 books I’m returning, unread, so that maybe I will remember, in the face of all the other books that will grab my attention, to check them out again:

The Violet Hour: Great Writers at the End by Katie Roiphie. An exploration of the dying days of writers and artists. I am a little obsessed with death lately.

Godforsaken Idaho by Shawn Vestal. I discovered this short story collection while looking for books to add to the library’s book group sets. I don’t think it would be a good choice for my library:  short stories with a decidedly un-Mormon twist. (That’s Joseph Smith on the cover.) I did read the first story, about an imagined afterlife, and found it dry and witty and delicious.

Weathering by Lucy Wood. A multigenerational novel about a grandmother, her daughter, and her daughter. One of them is a ghost whose remains are swirling in the river near her home.

Deathless by Catherynne M. Valente. A reimagining of the Russian folktale of Koschei the Deathless.

We are Water by Wally Lamb. The story of a woman who, after decades of marriage and family life, falls in love with another woman.

Fates and Furies by Lauren Groff. I confess: this is now the third time I’ve checked out and returned this book, which is an exploration of contemporary marriage. Perhaps it is just not the right time and I should give it up for good? Until it comes into my life again?

The Bitter Side of Sweet by Tara Sullivan. A teen novel about a boy named Amadou, who is working on a cocoa planation in the Ivory Coast to pay off his inexplicable debt. Did I not read it because I was afraid it would make me give up chocolate?

The Radleys by Matt Haig. A vampire novel. No one sparkles. This is more about family dynamics than blood drinking, but the bloody parts might be an interesting twist.

Almost Famous Women by Megan Mayhew Bergman. Some of the women in these stories are almost famous because of their proximity to famous people. Others because they almost make it. I’m kind of in love with short stories lately.

Thanks for the Trouble by Tommy Wallach. I loved his We All Looked Up, so I took this one home when I found it on the new YA books display. The description is sort of vague, a boy who doesn’t speak much and always avoids going to school meets an enigmatic girl.

Jimmy Bluefeather by Kim Heacox. The story of a Tlingit native, Keb Wisting, and the adventure he has with his grandson, whose injury at a logging mill ends his basketball aspirations. I got about twenty five pages into this but then got distracted, but the story is still tugging at me.

The Mare by Mary Gaitskill. I like what Maureen Corrigan said about it: “a raw, beautiful story about love and mutual delusion, in which the fierce erotics of mother love and romantic love and even horse fever are swirled together.” What more could one want from a novel?

The Golem and the Jinni by Helen Wecker. I read the first chapter of this as an e-book and I liked it too much to not read the book-book. But then I decided to just order my own copy to take on my trip next week. Why haven’t I returned it yet?

The Year’s Best Science Fiction: The 32nd Annual Collection. I have no idea why I requested this. For three or four years in the early 90s, I bought this every year. Then I realized I would never get through them all and I stopped. I think there is a story in there I wanted to read. Hopefully I will figure out which one.

All of these, along with five books about traveling in Europe, two books about lupus, and one cookbook, are all finally being returned to the library today. Hopefully someone else will be compelled to take one (or five) of them home. And actually read them.